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旗袍刺绣知识--女红 工巧 品格
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女红属妇道人家的闺房之事,是以针为工具、以线来造型的手工活,它不但在工巧的表现功能上通过针线活来传达有趣味的传统人文意境,使这种意境再通过实用的承载而体现,还强调女性“品”“德”“节”“通”的品格修养。­

“品”,指在制作女红时,必须注重自身形象的姿态,所谓“坐有坐相,立有立相”,《雪宦绣谱》即申明制作女红的姿态也要有规矩:双肩要平衡,两腿要并拢,保持坐姿与距离,还不能使口气或口中馋涎(或污物)污染女红品。

“德”,指女红制作中要有节约的意识。剩布与剩线不能弃之,可留作下次再用;对针要爱惜,视它如宝玉;汲取润泽线头要像取露水一般保持口水清洁。《女红余志》: “阮氏有古针,一生用之不坏。”《雪宦绣谱》:“备线不乱序于簿(线本),而类之以色,以待取用,所以别也。余线不弃留之针,捻而结之若球,以为后用,所以节也。取浥水之津如取露。实习用之针如宝玉,指以娴而免于涩也。”为保持制作表面的清洁,手腕下也要垫纸,以防手汗污损。  

“节”,指对待女红制作要有持之以恒的心态与毅力,不因主客观原因懈怠,有的女红活需日复一日、年复一年才能大功告成,几万针的打籽绣要保持它每个结的大小一致、排列匀称,没有大量的时间与精力的全心投入,是难以实现的。《雪宦绣谱》:“余自笄龄,昼夜有作。尝过夜分(夜半),住灯代烛。及于为妇,未懈而续,或起或行,稍间而复。”  

“通”,指要想提高自身技艺,创造完美的女红,女子必须注重才识修养,体会“功夫在画外”的意境。女红与书画密不可分,纹样的装饰表现如同书法的各种表现,要么圆润流畅,要么刚健苍劲,又如同水墨绘画一样,要么墨色丰富,要么以虚代实,只有艺术造诣上的提升才能使女红艺术有更大的突破。《雪宦绣谱》: “绣于美术连及书画,书则篆隶体方,行草笔圆,故绣圆难而方易。画则水墨易简,青绿构繁,故绣繁难而简易。余于书画,茫无途径,间从通人(学识渊博的人)。”女红品格同样要求女性有渊博的学识,通读万卷书,才能进入学识通达的境地,而领域女红造物的妙境。汉王充《论衡·超奇》:“通书千篇以上,万卷以下,弘畅雅闲,审定文读,而以教授为人师者,通人也。”例如女红借用水墨画的技巧与意境,创造了“虚实针(虚实并用)”与“散整针(实而不虚)”,其法同于水墨艺术中虚实相生、气韵生动的灵妙意境。

以针为工具、以线为造型、以工巧为表达的女红技艺,它总的特性是以实在的“针线活的技艺”来传达有寓意的传统人文意境,并使这种意境再通过实用的承载物而体现。

Female red things are fair sex in the bedroom, is a needle as a tool to shape the hand line to live, it is not only the performance of functions in the Handicraft to convey interesting by sewing the traditional humanistic conception, so that this conception and through the practical bearing and expression, but also that women are "goods" and "De" "Festival", "pass" character training. -

"Goods" means the production of female red, you must pay attention to the image of the gesture itself, the so-called "to sit, stand with a stand," "Snow official embroidered spectrum," which affirms that produced female red gesture should also have rules: shoulders to balance the legs to close together and sit and distance, can not breath or saliva mouth greedy (or dirt) contamination female red product.

"De" means the production of female red sense to have savings. Leftover fabric and can not abandon the remaining lines can be reserved for the next re-use; on the needle to cherish, as it is such as gem; draw moisture dew thread to get the general to keep saliva as clean. "Female Red Stephen": "Nguyen has ancient acupuncture, life with the not bad." "Snow Huan Embroidery spectrum": "Preparation is not out of order in the book line (line version), and type of Israel, to be obtained , and therefore do not have. I left the needle not abandon the line, twist the end of the ball if, after that, and therefore the section also. get wet the water-chun, who takes Lucy. internship with the needle, such as jade, refers to Xian and free also in Shibuya. "cleaning surface to maintain production, also under the wrist pad of paper, to prevent sweat stained hands.

"Day" refers to treatment of female red produced persistent attitude and perseverance should not slack off because of objective and subjective reasons, some women need red live day after day, year after year can be done on time, tens of thousands of needle embroidery to play seed The size of each node to keep it consistent, symmetrical arrangement, not a lot of time and energy to serve others, it is difficult to achieve. "Xue Huan Xiu spectrum": "I self-hairpin age, day and night, there have been. Tasted Yefen (midnight), live light on behalf of the candle. And on the women, not relentless and continued, or from, or line, between a little undone."

"Tong" means order to improve their skills and create the perfect female red, women must pay attention to ability and insight training, experience, "Kung Fu in the paintings," the mood. Female red and painting are inseparable, the decorative pattern as the performance of the various manifestations of calligraphy, or rounded and smooth or vigorous vigorous, but also the same as ink painting, ink or rich, or to virtual behalf of fact, the only artistic skills can improve on Artwork maid greater breakthrough. "Xue Huan Xiu spectrum": "Embroidery in art and painting with the book is Zhuanli body side, Cursive document round, it is difficult and side embroidery round easily. Draw the ink Yi Chien, green structure complex, it is embroidered Complexity and easy. I was painting, bewildered and without means, among from the learned person (knowledgeable people). "female red character as the woman has vast knowledge, through reading thousands of books, to enter the knowledge accessible position, and in the field of creation of the wonderful female red environment. Kingship as a "Lun Heng Chao Qi": "links more than 1000 books, rolls of the following, Hong Chang Ya leisure, and examine the text read, and to teach as teachers who have learned person." For example, female red ink to use the skills and mood, creating the "actual situation pin (actual situation and use)" and "San entire needle (solid but not virtual)", with its law with reality in the ink art students, the vivid spirit of wonderful mood.

Needle as a tool to line shape, as expressed in the female red Handicraft skills, it is indeed the general characteristics of the "sewing skill" to convey a moral tradition of human conception, and to this conception and through the practical bearing material and embodied

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