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中国唐装文化-隋唐五代官吏服饰 五代冠帽
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隋唐时期群臣服饰有衮冕(入朝、祭、亲迎等服之)、氅冕(侯八旒、伯七旒、服七章,受册、入朝、祭、迎亲服之)、毳冕(子六旒、男五旒,服五章)、弁服(自天子以下,内外九品以上,朱衣裳,素革带,穿皮履,为公服)、裤褶(五品以上为紫、六品以下为绛,宿卫及仗内加两裆,为文官副职)、礼服(承袭隋朝旧,:头戴介帻或笼冠,身穿对襟大袖衫,下佩围裳,玉佩组绶一应俱全,在大袖衫外加着裲)等等。唐代官吏,除穿圆领窄袖袍衫外,在一些重要场合,如祭祀典礼仍穿礼服。也是隋唐时期官吏服饰的一个特点。

隋唐五代皇帝冕服
隋唐时期,南北统一,疆域辽阔,经济发达中外交流频繁,体现出唐朝政权的巩固与强大。在服装服饰上也达到空前繁盛时期。

隋文帝厉行节俭,衣着俭朴,不注重服装的等级尊卑,经过20来年的修养生息,经济有了很大的恢复。到了隋炀帝即位,崇尚奢华铺张,为了宣扬皇帝的威严,恢复了秦汉章服制度。

南北朝时期将冕服十二章纹样中的日、月、星辰三章放到旗帜上,改成九章。隋炀帝又将其放回冕服上,也改成九章。将日、月分列两肩,星辰列于后背,从此“肩挑日月,背负星辰”就成为历代皇帝冕服的既定款式。

冕冠,是古代帝王臣僚参加祭祀典礼时所戴礼冠。用作皇帝、公侯等所穿的祭服。冕冠的顶部,有一块前圆后方的长方形冕板,冕板前后垂有“冕旒”。冕旒依数量及质料的不同,是区分贵贱尊卑的重要标志。凡戴冕冠者,都要穿冕服。冕服以玄上衣、朱色下裳,上下绘有章纹。此外还有蔽膝、佩绶、赤舄等。组成一套完整的服饰。

这种服制始于周代,历经汉、唐、宋、元诸代,一直延续到清代,绵延两千多年。此图为唐代戴冕冠、穿冕服的帝王(敦煌莫高窟220窟壁画)。

隋唐五代冠帽

隋唐五代冠:帽幞头是一种包头用的巾帛。

早在东汉就已流行这种装束,魏晋以后巾裹更加普及成为男子的主要首服。隋代幞头较简便。初唐幞头巾子较低,顶部多呈平型,即为 “平头小样”巾子。以后巾子渐渐增高,陆续出现“英王踣样”巾子、“官样”巾子、“开元内样”巾子等。幞头有软脚幞头和硬脚幞头。除幞头外,还有纱帽等。

Chinese costume culture - Five Dynasties Sui dress caps Officials

Sui dress Officials

Sui dress has Dagon ministers Mian (Ruchao, sacrifice, service of pro-Ying, etc.), cloak crown (Hou eight tassel, Beth seven tassel, serving seven chapters, by volume, entry into, offering wedding services of), Cui Mian (a six tassel, tassel five men, serving five chapters), functional services (from the emperor the following, both inside and outside Nine more, Zhu clothes, plain leather belt, wear leather shoes, for the public service), pleated pants (Wupinyishang purple, Liupinyixia to Jiang, Su Wei, and add two crotch in battle for civil deputy), dress (inherited Sui old: wearing a conical cap or cage mediated crown, wearing a large breasted sleeved shirt, under wear Wai Sang , jade ribbon ranging group, plus the Liang in the large-sleeved shirt) and so on. The Official, in addition to wearing a round neck T-shirt outside the narrow Xiupao, in some important occasions, such as the sacrificial ceremony is still wearing the dress. Sui dress is also a feature of the officials.

Sui emperor Mianfu
Sui and Tang dynasties, North-South reunification, vast territory, economic development and foreign exchange frequent, reflecting the consolidation of political power and the powerful Tang Dynasty. Dress in the clothing has reached an unprecedented boom period.

Emperor Wen rigorously enforce the thrifty, frugal clothing, do not pay attention to the level of hierarchy clothing, after 20 live training next year, the economy has been greatly restored. To the Emperor ascended the throne, advocating extravagant luxury, in order to promote the dignity of the emperor, Qin Zhang restored service system.

Northern and Southern Dynasties will Mianfu XII patterns in the sun, moon, stars three chapters into the banner into nine chapters. Turn it back Mianfu Emperor, but also into nine chapters. To date, and months out shoulders, the stars out in the back, from "hands are sun, moon, stars bear" has become the established style emperors Mianfu.

Corona crown, the ancient imperial court officials to participate in the ritual ceremony, ritual wear the crown. For the emperor, princes and other vestments worn. Corona crown at the top, there is a rectangle behind the crown before the round plate, crown board hanging around the "crown tassel." According to the number of coronal tassel and the different material is an important symbol of distinction between social status hierarchy. Where a person wearing a crown crown, must wear Mianfu. Mianfu the mysterious T-shirt, vermilion lower part, upper and lower lines painted chapter. There is also cover the knee, wear ribbon, red shoe and so on. Form a complete set of costumes.

This service system began in the Zhou Dynasty, after the Han, Tang, Song, Yuan Zhu generation, has been extended to the Qing Dynasty, stretching over two thousand years. This picture shows the crown to wear the crown of Tang Dynasty, the emperor wearing Mianfu (220 Mogao caves.)

Caps Sui

Sui crown: the first is a header cap Fu towel used silk.

Been popular as early as this dress in the Eastern Han, Wei became more widespread after the towel wrapped the first men's major services. Sui Fu first is simple. Early child hood Fu lower, mostly at the top level type, which is "flat head demo" towel son. Gradually increased after the child towel, start to appear, "the king prostrate like" towel son, "official sample" towel son, "the kind of Kaiyuan" towel child and so on. Fu Fu the first head has soft feet and hard feet Fu head. In addition to Fu head, there Shamao and so on.  

  

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