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中国传统服饰:宋朝官服
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宋代服装分三种:一为自皇后、贵妃至各级命妇所用的"公服",一为平民百姓所用的吉凶服称"礼服";一为日常所用的常服。宋代官服大部分是沿袭初唐。在北宋初年因服饰没有定制,又受外来影响,所以曾出现过着"毡笠"、"钩(敦下+土)"(袜[衣旁+夸])的契丹服,人们称它为奇装异服。宋代官家服饰普遍十分奢侈,民家着装也很讲究。宋太祖三年(乾德年间)规定宫内妇女的服色要随大夫变化,还规定庶民百姓不得采用绫缣五色华衣。到仁宗、英宗、神宗直至政和七年时期,官府提倡改良服饰,而且更趋奢华。对于这些规定民间庶民置若罔闻,绫缣锦绣任意服用。一些京城的贵族闺阁们,还别出心裁地设计出许多种装扮方法,追求出新与别致。不但衣料选择考究,而且梳妆也很特别,有的梳大?方额,有的扎发垂肩,有的云光巧额鬓撑金凤,贫者还有用剪纸装饰头发,身上抹香,足履绣花等。
宋装继承唐装遗制,女服仍以衫、襦、袄、背子、裙、袍、褂、深衣为主,都是命妇之服。1975年在福建省的浮仓山出土了一座墓葬,从众多的陪葬品中可以浏览到宋代女装的全貌。这是一座十分有研究价值的宋墓,墓主是一位因难产而死的十七岁少妇,是南宋时期的贵族妇女。墓葬中的陪葬品的数量和质量都是上乘物品,出土的衣妆配件十分齐全。长衣、短衣、单衣、夹衣、棉衣其式样均具有宋代风格,每件还有不同变化。绝大部分是直领对襟式,无带无扣,颈部外缘重叠缝制着护领。所有服式均采用衣袖相连的裁剪方式。有的限于面料的幅度,因而在衣片的背部或袖椿部分采用接缝和贴边装饰。单夹衣有前身短后身长的式样,也有无袖的大背心式样。出土的衣服都在领边、袖边、大襟边、腰部和下摆部位分别镶边或绣有装饰图案,采用印金、刺绣和彩绘工艺,饰以牡丹、山茶、梅花和百合等花卉。

出土的几十件文物中,按原料分可有两大类。一类是罗、绢质地的平展裙〈以二、三片面料缝制成),分上下两幅,上幅压下幅,裙腰上有双带,这种裙除少数几件为全素色外,大部分都有边饰;另一类是非常精美的印花罗百褶裙其原料既透明又轻薄,除裙腰和带子以外,全部是印金小团花纹。

文物中还有三种长裤,即开裆的单夹裤,开裆的丝棉裤和满裆的右侧开片裤。长裤是古代女子的内用服式,由于有裙遮盖,所以当时的裤子更强调实用性,全用素罗、素绢缝制,无花边装饰。所谓无裆或开片,主要是为使用方便而设计。这些长裤一般尺寸是:裤长为二尺三寸至二尺七寸;腰围为二尺至二尺四寸;裤口宽为七寸至一尺,开裆裤的带子缀在腰部正中,开片裤的双带缀在右侧,带长约一尺八寸。

该墓出土的文物包括:袍、袄、裙、衫、裤、肚兜、绶带、鞋、袜、香囊、粉扑、裹脚布、荷包和例假带等数种。为后人研究宋代女子衣妆,提供了极好的资料。

宋代品官制度基本上沿袭前代,因此宫中的官服也与前代相仿,分为朝服、祭服、公服、戎服、丧服和时服。朝服是朱衣朱裳,内着白色罗中单,外束罗料大带,并有绯色罗料蔽膝,身挂锦绶、玉佩、玉钏,下着白绫袜黑皮履。除这种朝服是统一样式外,官职的高低是以搭配的不同来区别的。主要是在有无禅衣(中单)和锦绶上的图案上作级别变化。着朝服时必戴进贤冠(是一种涂漆的梁冠帽),貂蝉冠(又名"笼巾",是以藤丝编成形,上面涂漆的冠帽),獬豸冠(属进贤冠一类)。 祭服是参照汉代以后制定的形制。

公服即常服,又名"从省服",以曲领大袖,腰间束革带为主要形式。另有窄袖式样也是公服。这种服式以用色区别等级。如九品官以上用青色;七品官以上用绿色;五品官以上用朱色;三品官以上用紫色。到宋元丰年间用色稍有更改,四品以上用紫色;六品以上用绯色;九品以上用绿色。按当时的规定,服用紫色和绯色 (朱色)衣者,都要配挂金银装饰的鱼袋,高低职位以此物加以明显的区别。时服是按季节赐发给官臣的衣物。宋建隆三年以后赐发的范围更加广泛,上至将相皇帝大将下至侍卫步军,赐发的品种有袍、袄、衫、袍肚、裤等。所赐之服大部分是织有鸟兽的锦纹。

宋代男子除在朝的官服以外,平日的常服也是很有特色的,常服在这里指"燕居服"(即居室中服用的衣物)因此也叫"私服"。宋官与平民百姓的燕居服形式上没有太大区别。只是在用色上有较为明显的规定和限制。从隋代开始,帝王统用明黄色制衣,官臣不得乱用。据文献记载,由于朝廷内赐佩金银鱼袋的公服是以紫、绯色原料制做,故一般低级官吏不得乱用,而只可服用黑白两种颜色。 宋时常服有如下几种: "袍"有宽袖广身和窄袖窄身两种类型:有官职者着锦袍,无官职者着白布袍。

“襦”、“袄”为平民日常穿用的必备之服。诗人陆游曾写道“业农……惟布襦裙,取适寒暑之宜”。襦袄有夹棉之分。 “短褐”是一种既短又粗的布衣,为贫苦之人服用。由于这种衣服体窄袖小,故称之为筩袖的襦(即筒袖)。 “衫”为宋代男子穿用,外穿宽大的衫叫“凉衫”。色白的衫叫“白衫”。深紫料的衫叫“紫衫”。士大夫用衫有记载“紫衫非公服,特小衫也”。因此紫衫又为 “窄衫”。《清明上河图》中,有头戴帷帽乘驴之女子也披"凉衫"。由于凉衫大多以淡紫色为主,故宋考宗时曾规定以凉衫为吊丧之服。另外"毛衫"、"?衫" 是以羊毛和麻葛原料而取名。

“襕衫”,《宋史·舆服志》记载“襕衫以白细布为之,圆领大袖,下施横襕为裳,腰间有襞积,进士、圆子生、州县生服之”。这是一种裳下摆接一横襕的男人长衫。

“裳”是沿袭上衣下裳的古制。是冕服、朝服或私居服的式样。宋时也有上衣下裳的穿法。男子也穿用对领镶黑边饰的长上衣配以黄裳。燕居之时不束带,待客之时以大带束之。

“直裰”是一种比较宽大的长衣。由于下摆无而背部却有中缝而称“直裰”。“鹤氅”有记载“又有大袖如中国鹤氅,宽长曳地”。是一种用鹤毛与其他鸟毛合捻成绒织成的裘衣,十分贵重。

此外宋代男式衣着,还有布衫和罗衫。内用的叫汗衫,有交领和颌领形式。质料很考究,多用绸缎、纱、罗。颜色有白、青、皂(黑)、杏黄、茶褐等。袄的质料有布、绸、罗、锦、纻丝和皮。袄的用色有青、红、枣红、墨绿、鹅黄等几种。贵族着裤质地也十分讲究,以纱、罗、绢、绸、绮、绫为多,并有平素纹、大提花、小提花等图案装饰,裤色以驼黄、棕、褐为主色。平民劳作时着裤质地比较粗劣。

1975年从江苏金坛地区,出土了一座宋代儒生的墓葬,该墓墓主是一位八品以下官职的庶人子弟,太学士周?。由于葬者地位低下,出土的文物,从质量到数量均较为逊色。从古至今男性与女性在衣着储备上生前自然有别,但在死后更明显不同,这位儒生的陪葬品就具有这种男性特点。陪葬物中有单衫、夹衫、丝锦袍、短衣和无底的紬袜裤等,比较简单。衣物大多是合领、交领和圆领式样。

Song clothing in three: one for self-Queen, Royal used to the levels of Mingfu "public service", one used for the civilian population, good and bad service called "dress"; a daily use for the uniforms. Most followed the Tang Dynasty Song Dynasty robes. In the Northern Song Dynasty costumes because there is no custom, but also by outside influences, so there have been living a "carpet Li," "Hook (London next + earth)" (socks [clothing next to the + glory]) of the Khitan service, people call it fancy dress. Song is very popular luxury clothing to officials, private houses are very particular about the dress. Brought in three years (Conduit years) require the services of women palace with the doctor to change color, also provides for ordinary people not dressed up with colored fine silk damask. To Ren, Yingzong, Shenzong period of seven years until the governance, promoting improved official clothing, and more luxury. These provisions for civil common people turned a deaf ear to take any beautiful fine silk damask. Boudoir are some of the capital's aristocrats, even inspired dress designed many kinds of ways, the pursuit of a new and unique. Clothing selection is not only elegant, but the dressing is very special, and some big hair? Party places, and some hair Chuijian bar, and some clever cloud amount of light coming from the Golden Phoenix hold, the poor also decorated with paper-cut hair, body wiping Hong, foot shoe embroidery.
Song loading relics inherited costume, dresses still shirt, jacket, coat, back child, dress, gown, coat, dark clothes mainly, are Mingfu the service. Floating in the Fujian Province in 1975 unearthed a tomb Cangshan, from the numerous grave goods women can browse to the picture of the Song Dynasty. This is a very research value Song Period Tomb at, a tomb to die in childbirth Seventeen-year-old young woman, is the Southern Song Dynasty aristocratic women. Buried in the tombs of the quantity and quality are superior goods, clothes makeup accessories unearthed very complete. Gown, jacket, unlined garment, bodysuit, cotton for the pattern all have the Song Dynasty style, there are different variations of each. Most of the collar buttons down the front straight and with no belt no buckle, neck, overlapping the outer edge of the retaining collar sewing. All costumes are connected with the sleeves cut way. Some limited range of fabrics, garment thus piles the back or sleeve seams and hem part is decorated. After one bodysuit has a short length of the style predecessor, but also a large sleeveless vest style. Clothes are unearthed in the collar edge, sleeve edge, dajin side, waist and hem are trimmed or embroidered parts decorative patterns, the use of Indian gold, embroidery and painting techniques, decorated with peony, camellia, plum, and lilies and other flowers.

Dozens of pieces of unearthed cultural relics, press material points can have two broad categories. One is the Law, the texture of the flat silk skirt <by two, three pieces of fabric sewn into), two points up and down, pressure on the rate increase, Qunyao on a double belt, this dress except the few full-prime color, most are edging; the other is a very fine printing Luo pleated skirt of its raw materials both transparent and thin, with the exception Qunyao and tape other than a small group of gold are all printed pattern.

There are three kinds of cultural relics in the pants, that is, a single folder open crotch pants, open crotch crotch silk trousers and full open slice to the right pants. Within a woman's trousers with ancient costumes, due to skirt cover, so the pants were more emphasis on practical, all with prime Luo, Su Juan sewing, no lace. The so-called free or open crotch piece, mainly designed for ease of use. The general size of these pants are: Length is two feet three inches to two feet seven inches; waist is two feet four inches to two feet; Kukou seven inches to a foot wide, open crotch pants waist strap hanging on the middle, opening film trousers hanging on the right side of the double band, with about one foot eight inches.

The tomb unearthed relics include: gown, jacket, skirt, shirt, pants, apron, sash, shoes, socks, sachet, powder puff, bindings, purse, and the number of vacation leave with other species. Song for future generations of women clothing makeup, provides excellent information.

Ranking government officials in the Song Dynasty followed the previous generation system is basically, so the palace robes are similar to the previous generation, is divided into robes, vestments, public service, Rong Fu, mourning, and when the service. Court dress is Zhu Yi Zhu clothes, white Romania within a single, external beam Luo big band material, and material shelter Cardinal Law knee, the body hanging Kam Shou, jade, Yu Chuan, under a white silk socks, black shoes. In addition to this court dress is a unified style, the official with the level is different to different. Mainly in whether the Zen clothing (in single) and Jin make the pattern on the ribbon level change. When a court dress will Dai Jinxian crown (cap is a painted Liang Guan), Diao Chan crown (also known as "cage towel", is a compilation of silk vine forming, painting the crown above the cap), haitai crown (an Jinxian Crown Class). Vestments after the Han dynasty established by reference to shape.

The uniforms of public service, also known as "service from the province" to lead a large curved sleeves, leather belt around his waist as the main form. Another is public services Zhaixiu style. The difference between the use of color for clothing to class. Nine officers as above with blue; seven more than the official use of green products; Mandarin of the fifth over with vermilion; Mishina more purple official. Song Yuanfeng years to change the colors slightly, more than four products with purple; more than six products with the Cardinal; Nine more green. The prevailing regulations, taking the purple, and Cardinal (vermilion) clothing who have to wear gold and silver decorative fish bag, high and low positions as objects to be a clear distinction. Given when the service is distributed by the official season, Robinson's clothing. Song Jianlong issued three years later thanks to a wider range, from the phase down to the guards step emperor army generals, given the varieties of hair gown, jacket, shirt, belly gowns, pants and so on. Most of the gift of clothing woven with birds and beasts of the Jin Wen.

In addition to moving in the Song Dynasty official robes men outside dressed in uniforms during weekdays is very unique, dressed in uniforms in this case, "Oscillation service" (ie, taking the clothes in the room) is also called "Sifu." Song Oscillation officer and the civilian population is not much different form of service. Only the use of color have a more significant provisions and restrictions. Starting from the Sui Dynasty, the emperor system with a bright yellow garment, government minister shall not be used indiscriminately. According to historical records, the court wear gold and silver fish in the bag thanks to the public service is purple, Cardinal making raw materials, it is generally low-level officials may not be used indiscriminately, but only taking black and white colors. Song uniforms are summarized as follows: "gowns" wide body and narrow sleeves with wide sleeves Skinny two types: those with official Jin Pao, who was white Bupao no official position.

"Jacket", "jacket" is a must wearing civilian clothes everyday. Poet Lu You wrote, "... ... except agricultural industry cloth jacket dress, suitable for cold and heat should be taken." Jacket quilted jacket with the points. "Short brown" is a very short and thick clothes and take the poor person. Because of this dress with tight sleeves small body, so called Dong sleeve jacket (ie, cylinder sleeves.) "Shirt" for the Song man wear, Waichuan large shirt called "cool shirt." Color white shirt is "in white." Deep Purple T-shirt material called "purple shirt." Recorded with a shirt literati "paclitaxel non-public service, especially small shirt of it." Therefore, paclitaxel and as a "narrow shirt." "Painting", there is by donkey wearing hat curtain woman even put the "cool shirt." As cool purple shirt mostly based, it had provided to the Song Dynasty were cool shirt to condole the service. In addition, "Sweater", "? Shirt" of wool and linen is named Ge feedstock.

"Robe shirt," "Song Yufu" recorded "robe of white muslin shirt to whom, T big sleeves, Wang gown by applying for the clothes, waist with fold product, Scholars, Mariko Health, state Health Services The. " This is a cross-gown skirts hem of a man in connection gown.

"Skirt" is the lower part of the old system of inherited coat. Is Mianfu, court dress or clothing style private home. Song is also lower part of the worn jacket. Men also wear the black trim on the collar inlay accompanied by Huang Shang long coat. Oscillation is not belted when, when the hospitality of the big belt.

"Straight Duo" is a relatively large mantle. Because there is in the back hem and seam-free while the "straight Duo." "The Crane cloak" recorded "such as China have a large crane cloak sleeves, wide long drag to." Is a kind of crane and other Niaomao hair twisted into velvet woven together into a fur coat, is very valuable.

Men's clothing also Song, and blouse, and Luo Shan. T-shirt with the name inside, a form of cross-collar collar and jaw. Material is very elegant, the use of silk, yarn, Romania. Colors are white, blue, soap (black), apricot, Chahe and so on. Jacket of the material with cloth, silk, Luo, Jin, css silk and leather. The use of color jacket with blue, red, purplish red, dark green, light yellow and so are several. Noble is also very particular about the texture of the pants, to yarn, Luo, silk, silk, chi, Aya as much, and have usually pattern, jacquard, small jacquard pattern decoration, pants camel color to yellow, brown, brown in color. Civilian labor poor when compared with the pants texture.

From 1975, Jintan, Jiangsu region, scholars unearthed the tomb of a Dynasty, the tomb is a tomb of the following eight items of the common people the children of office, too Bachelor of weeks? . Buried by the low status of cultural relics unearthed from quality to quantity are more impressive. Since ancient times men and women alive in the dress on the nature reserve are different, but more significantly different after death, buried the Confucian scholars of the men to have this feature. Funerary objects in a single shirt, shirt folder, silk Jin Pao, jacket, and silk stockings bottomless so simple. Most clothing co-collar, cross-style collar and round neck.

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