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我国清代文武官员穿着补服,在服饰的前胸和后背正中均缀饰一块绣有飞禽或走兽的丝筛,称“补子”。它又因丝绣的技巧,染工的技法,成了艺术珍品。
饰以禽兽纹样来区分官员等级的方法最早源于唐代女皇武则天时期。在此之前的官服多采用佩印绶制和色制,是以佩饰的数量和服装的颜色等来区分等级。武则天把饰有动物纹样的绣袍赐给文武官员,以此来作为品级官位的区别。这种创意一改朝服等级的形象,使人一看便知。
清早期,只有武官为补服制,而补子可随意缀织于朝衣、短褂、皮褂、马褂之上。到了顺治九年后,对补服的制作有了改变,几乎全盘承袭了明朝的定制,只有个别纹样有所删改。各级官员补服为石青色,款式也一致,为圆领、对襟、平袖过肘、身长过膝,区别仅在于补子形状和纹样的不同。
清代的补子直接袭于明朝,但也有所发展和变化,二者的主要区别,首先在于型制上。明代补子施于袍,清代补子用于褂。明服为团领衫,前胸补子是完整的一块,清服是对襟褂,前胸的补子被一分为二。明代的补子既有单独缀织到补服上的,也有事先直接织绣在补服上的,清代则为单独织绣成后再缝缀到补褂上的。明代的补子大约40厘米见方,清代的补子稍小,约30厘米见方;再有就是明代的补子多以红色等素色为底,金线绣花,清代的补子则是以青、黑、深红等深色为底,五彩织绣,色彩艳丽。明代补子四周多为光边,清代补子四周加工精细,多采用花边,并具有装饰效果。明代文官四品以下的补子,多绣有一对飞禽,清代的禽兽均绣单只。
明代的补子只饰于前胸后背,清代宗室的圆补有的不仅饰胸,还有的饰于两肩之上。
缀绣在清代官服上的补子,是识别官员等级的一种标识。它只不过是绣工的复杂程度和颜色的差别。补子随着官职而存在,且受到朝廷的限制,不能大量制作。因此有极高的工艺价值和历史价值。如今,它已成了一种珍贵的文物藏品。
官员所缀绣的补子图案各有不同,主要以文官采用飞禽饰样,武官采用走兽图案,用以显示出武官的威武气势。而官员的元配夫人为朝廷命妇,亦可随夫婿官阶,可在正式的霞帔胸、背部分缀有补子。
补子分圆补和方补两种。圆补用于贝子以上皇亲者,上为五爪金龙纹,分别饰于左右肩上及前胸和后背。方补均用于文官和武将等官员。
文官缀绣的补子图案分别为:一品为仙鹤,二品为锦鸡,三品为孔雀,四品为云雁,五品为白鹇,六口若悬河为鹭鸶,七品为(氵+鸡)(氵+束+鸟),八品为鹌鹑,九品为练雀。
武官缀绣的补子图案分别为:一品为麒麟,二品为绣狮,三品绣豹,四品绣虎,五品绣熊,六品绣彪,七品绣犀牛,八品与七品相同也是绣犀牛,九品绣海马。
清代的补服制度严格,任何人不得逾越。年羹尧的儿子因穿了四团龙补服一项,在给年羹尧定罪时,就有这一项:“非其人,不得服其服,顺礼也。”
当时,也有官员因自己的职位低,为了提高自己的地位,私自找绣工制作的。加工厂清廷三令五申禁止私自制作比自己官职高的补子,但为了利益仍有造假之事发生。制作这些补子的机构,是皇家专门织造绸锦缎的织造衙门。皇家织造衙门聚集了天下的能工巧匠,他们用各种绣丝彩料,运用和继承精湛的织绣技术手法,织绣出了誉满天下的传统服饰。这些补子如今已成了珍贵的文物和艺术珍品了。
Level representatives of the Qing Dynasty robes pattern
Wearing make up China's civil and military officials in the Qing Dynasty clothes, back and chest in the middle of costumes were dressed birds or animals a piece of embroidered silk screen, saying "make children." It is because of silk embroidery skills, techniques Rangong become art.
Decorated with animal patterns to distinguish the method from the earliest level officials of the Tang Dynasty Empress Wu period. Prior to the official uniform system to use more wear and color ribbon printing system is based on the number of accessories and clothing color to distinguish between levels. Wu decorated with animals, the gown embroidered patterns given to civil and military officials, as the difference between official position as a grade. The level of creativity has changed the image of court dress, people see at a glance.
The early Qing Dynasty, only the military officer serving as a complement system, which make up sub-organizations in the DPRK are free to affix clothing, Duangua, leather coat, jacket on top. To Junji Nine years later, the production of the missed dose has changed, almost completely custom inherited the Ming Dynasty, only the deletion of individual patterns somewhat. Officials at all levels missed dose as blue stone, the model has the same as the round neck, buttons down the front, flat sleeve over the elbow, knee length, except that the make up of different sub-shapes and patterns.
Directly attack the complement of the Qing Dynasty to the Ming child, but also some development and change, the main difference between the two, first and foremost on the type of system. Make sub-Ming Shi in gowns, the Qing Dynasty used to make sub-coat. Group leader for the next service shirt, chest fill a child is a complete, clear service is breasted coat, the complement of the chest is divided into two sub. The complement of the Ming Dynasty established a separate sub-organizations to make service on the suffix, but also at the meeting in advance direct embroidery on the clothes, after the Qing Dynasty was a separate embroidery stitch to make into a coat on. The complement of the Ming Dynasty about 40 cm square sub, sub smaller complement of the Qing Dynasty, about 30 cm square; then there is the complement of the Ming Dynasty and other sub-plain more than a red base, gold thread embroidery, children are based on the complement of the Qing Dynasty blue, black, dark red and other dark as the bottom, colorful embroidery, bright colors. Ming Dynasty, more than make up for the children of light around the edges, fine processing of the Qing Dynasty make up around children, the use of lace, and has a decorative effect. Ming civilian complement of the following four sub-products, and more embroidered with a pair of birds, animals are embroidered Qing single.
Complement of sub-Ming only played back in the chest, make up some of the Qing Dynasty imperial clan of the round chest is not only decorative, but also the decoration on top of the shoulders.
Qing Dynasty robes decorated with embroidery on the complement of the child, is to identify the official level of a logo. It is simply the complexity of embroidery and color differences. Make sub-exists with the office, and limited by the court, not mass production. Therefore, the process has high value and historical value. Now it has become a precious cultural relics collection.
The complement of officials augmented sub-pattern embroidered vary, mainly civilian decorated with bird-like, military, animals and patterns used to indicate the military attache of the mighty momentum. The court officials first wife Mrs. Ming Fu, also rank as her husband, the official Xiapei in the chest, back fill some decorated with children.
Make sub-sub-fill both round and square complement. Circle more than make up for the beta sub-princes who for the Ipomoea gold dragons, each decorated on the left and right shoulder and chest and back. Side are used for civilian and military commanders make such officials.
Civil decorated embroidery complement sub-patterns are: a product for the crane, two items for the golden pheasant, Mishina for the peacock, the four products for the Yun Yan, five products for the Silver Pheasant, six eloquent as egrets and seven items for the (Rui chicken) (Rui beam birds ), eight items for the quail, birds Nine for the training.
Military attache decorated embroidery complement sub-patterns are: a product for the unicorn, two products for the embroidered lion, Mishina embroidered leopard, the four items embroidered tigers, five items embroidered bears, six items embroidered Biao, seven items embroidered rhinos, eight items with seven items the same is embroidered rhinos, Nine embroidered hippocampus.
The complement system of the Qing Dynasty clothes strict, no person shall exceeded. Managing the son of four dragons to wear a missed dose, in his Managing the conviction, there is this one: "Non-its people, not serving its services, Shun Li Ye."
At that time, other officials because of his low position, in order to improve their status, made privately to find embroidery. Qing court injunctions against unauthorized production of plants than their fill of high sub-office, but in order to benefit fraud are still things happen. These make sub-making body, the Royal Weaving silk brocade weaving specialized Yamen. Royal weaving together the world's craftsmen Yamen, they used a variety of embroidered silk color material, the use of technology and inheritance practices exquisite embroidery, embroidery out of the world famous traditional clothing. The child now has become a valuable complement the artifacts and artistic treasures of the.