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旗袍常用面料——丝织物,(有素织物与花织物之分)。素织物是表面平正素洁的织物,如电力纺、斜纹绸等。花织物有小花纹织物,如涤纶绉,大花纹织物,如花软缎等。丝织物也可分为生织物与熟织物。用未径练染丝线织成的织物称之为生织物。用先径练染的丝线织成的织物称为熟织物。www.mingliuqipao.com
织物是在织机上由相互垂直排列的二个系统的丝线(即径与纬线),按一定规律互相交织而成的物体,在织物内,与绸边平行排列的丝线称为径线,与绸边垂直排例的丝线称为纬线。
织物分类:
丝织物分类原则首先是以织物的组织结构为主要依据,其次以制造工艺如生织物、熟织物、加捻等为依据,另外是以织物实质上形状为依据,目前丝织物可分为十四个大类:
1、纺类:应用平纹组织构成平正、紧密而又比较轻薄的花、素、条格织物,径纬一般不加捻。如电力纺、彩条纺。
2、绉类:运用织造上各种工艺条件作用、组织结构的作用(如强捻或利用张力强弱或原料强缩的特性等),使织物外观能近似绉缩效果,如乔其、双绉。
3、绸类:织物的地纹可采用平纹或各种变化组织,或同时混用其它组织,如织绣绸。
4、缎类:织物地纹的全部或大部采用缎纹组织的花素织物,表面平滑光亮、手感柔软,如花软缎、人丝缎。
5、绢类;应用平纹或重平组织,经纬线先练白、染单色或复色的熟识花素织物,质地较轻薄,绸面细密、平整、挺括,如塔夫绸。
6、绫类:运用各种斜纹组织为地纹的花素织物,表面具有显著的斜纹纹路,如斜纹绸、美丽绸。
7、罗类:应用罗组织经向或纬向构成一列纱孔的花素织物,如涤纶纱、杭罗。
8、纱类:应用绞纱组织,在地纹或花纹的全部或一部份构成有纱孔的花素织物,如芦纱山纱、筛绢。
9、绢类:采用平纹或绞纱组织或径纬平行交织的其它组织而构成有似纱组织孔眼的花素织物,径纬密度较小,质地透明轻薄,如头巾绡、条花绡。
10、葛类:一般经细纬粗,经密纬疏,地纹表面少光泽,而又比较明显粗细一致的横向凸纹,经纬一般不加捻,如文尚葛、明华葛。
11、呢类:用绉组织或短浮纹组织成地纹,不显露光泽,质地比较丰满、厚实、有毛型感,如素花呢。
12、绒类:地纹和花纹的全部或局部采用起毛组织表面呈现毛绒或毛圈的花素织物,如乔其绒,天鹅绒。
13、绨类:用长丝作经,棉纱蜡线或其它低级原料作纬,地纹用平纹组成,质地比较粗厚的花素织物,如绨被面、素绨。
14、锦类:外观瑰丽多彩,花纹精致高雅的色织多梭纹提花丝织物,如织锦缎、古香缎
Cheongsam common fabric - silk fabric, (well-established fabric and flower fabric of points). Ping Zheng Su Jie Su fabric on the surface of fabric, such as power spin, Twill etc.. Fabric flower fabric with small patterns, such as polyester crepe, large pattern fabrics, satin flower, etc.. Silk fabrics can be divided into a living fabric and cooked fabric. Diameter with no scouring fabric woven silk fabric called hygiene. Stained with the first train tracks woven into the fabric called silk fabric familiar.
Loom fabric is arranged by the two mutually perpendicular systems of threads (ie, diameter and latitude), made according to certain rules are intertwined objects, in the fabric, and silk thread called edge arranged parallel to diameter wire, and silk side of the vertical row of cases known as the weft thread.
Fabric Categories:
First of all silk fabrics are fabrics classification principle is mainly based on the organizational structure, followed by manufacturing processes such as raw fabric, cooked fabric, twisting, etc., based on the shape of another is essentially based on the fabric, silk fabrics can be divided into 14 current major categories:
1, spinning class: The plain weave constitute Pingzheng, close and relatively thin flower, prime, stripe fabric, weft path are generally not twisting. Such as power spinning, spinning color bar.
2, Crepe: the use of weaving on the role of various processing conditions, the role of the organizational structure (such as twist, or use of tension strength, or strength reduction characteristics of raw materials, etc.), so that the fabric similar to crepe look to reduce effects such as Georgette, Double crepe.
3, silk categories: plain weave fabric can be used to profile the changes or organization, or the same mix of other organizations, such as embroidery silk.
4, Satin: fabrics to patterns of all or most of the flowers with satin weave fabric elements, the surface smooth and shining, soft, flowery satin, satin person.
Five, silk class; application tabby or re-level organizations, the longitude and latitude, the first practice of white, dyed monochrome or color of familiar flowers factor complex fabric, texture thin, fine silk surface, smooth, crisp, such as taffeta.
6, Aya categories: land use patterns for the various twill weave fabric flower elements, the surface has significant twill lines, such as Twill, beautiful silk.
7, Luo categories: Applications by Romanian organizations to form a yarn or weft hole fabric flower elements, such as polyester yarn, Hang Luo.
8 Yarn: The yarn organization in the land pattern or patterns constitute all or part of the hole with gauze fabric flower elements, such as Lu Shan yarn yarn, silk screen.
9, silk Category: Using plain or weft yarn path parallel to the cutting organizations or other organizations which constitute a similar hole in the flower tissue factor yarn fabric, weft density of small diameter, thin transparent texture, such as the headscarf raw silk, raw silk flower section.
10, Ge Category: general by small latitude coarse, thinning by close weft, to the surface of a small grain gloss, but more obvious lateral line weight convex pattern, latitude and longitude generally do not twist, if the text is still Ge, Ming-hua Ge.
11, what types: short with embossed crepe organization or organizations to become the pattern, does not reveal gloss, texture relatively full, thick, hairy-type flu, such as the prime tweed.
12, velvet: Ground pattern and the pattern of the whole or in part by the surface showed soft tissue or terry terry fabric flower elements, such as georgette velvet, velvet.
13, Ti categories: for by the use of filament, yarn wax lines or other low-level materials for the weft, to use plain grain composition, texture and relatively thick fabric flower elements, such as Ti quilt cover, prime Ti.
14, Kam categories: the appearance of colorful, delicate patterns and elegant multi-spindle pattern jacquard silk yarn-dyed fabrics, such as tapestry satin, satin ancient incense