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慈禧之物-“凤嬉龙”绣袍
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一件“凤在上、龙在下”、尺寸特大的“凤龙袍”(宽186cm,高137cm),处处透着皇权、女权的威严和富丽。前几天,在广州一位文化人士家中,见到了这件藏品的主人——专门收藏精美绣品的曾应菁先生侨居美国20多年,一直在寻找散落他乡的中国绣品。
  曾应菁这次回穗探亲,将部分藏品带回到其父母家,随闻讯前来的广东民间工艺博物馆收藏部和陈列部的行家,来到他家大饱眼福。这件藏品,还请了在全国有一定影响的广绣大师陈少芳评价,她赞叹不已:“还未见过这么精美的绣品。”

  纽约天光墟淘到宝

  “我收藏的中国刺绣有几十件,其中不乏清代的精品,而最有争议的极品就是这件‘凤在上、龙在下’的慈禧绣袍。”谈起这件罕见藏品的来历,曾应菁兴致勃勃,他回忆道,那是两年前的一个冬天的清晨,曾应菁一早赶到纽约的天光墟。每个周末一早,美国东海岸6个州的文物商人就云集在这,摆卖各式各国的旧服。一件清朝黛色丝绸长袍将他深深地吸引,从图案到衣袖的刺绣都极其华丽和精巧。当时人多,场面也较乱,他并没有特别注意到那凤在上、龙在下的构图,而是明显地觉得这件清袍霸气超然,做工考究,是一件不可多得的清代宫廷服饰。

  曾应菁说:“当时我毫不犹豫地把这件青黛色的刺绣长袍抓到手,并和那位古旧服装经销商聊了起来。原来他来自美国宾州,经他手买下的世界各地的各种古旧服饰数不胜数。至于这一件凤龙袍的来历,他约莫记得来自宾夕法尼亚的一个教堂拍卖场。”经讨价还价后曾买下了绣袍。

  此物当属慈禧太后?

  回到家,曾应菁将这件袍子仔仔细细地端详,越看越惊讶,发现其前后的刺绣竟然是一个凤嬉龙的图案,违反了中国封建王朝的常理,“凤在上,龙在下”。

  在中国封建历史上,男尊女卑、皇权第一的封建规矩也表现在日常和皇室的服饰中。翻遍了所有资料,有关介绍中国刺绣服饰的书籍例样中,可以说没有一件这样张狂的“凤在上,龙在下”的宫廷绣品,朝廷下属官宦决不敢冒欺君杀头之罪去做这种服饰,只有唐代武则天和清代慈禧太后敢穿这种服饰。

  曾应菁说:“这件‘凤龙袍’的出现,可以理解为象征慈禧太后当时的至高无上的权力,也可以理解为慈禧下属为奉承太后,有意为她献上的一件讨她欢心的‘凤在上,龙在下’的朝袍。从袍子内层蓝绸衫底显示的穿过的旧迹判断,此‘凤龙袍’被穿过半年以上。至今还未发现清代还有另一件这样的‘凤龙袍’,它极可能是清朝留下的孤品。”

  为证实自己的想法,曾应菁查找了几乎所有有关故宫绣袍资料,但都没有答案。他又跑过很多地方找专家鉴定,也都不能如愿。因为绣品藏家很少,鉴定人才和资料更是匮乏,令他感到很遗憾。为此询问过广东省博物馆的人员,答复也是:鉴定绣品的专家比较少,广东基本上没有这方面的人才。www.mingliuqipao.com(编辑整理)

1 "Phoenix in the last dragon in the next" big size "Phoenix robes" (width 186cm, high-137cm), is filled with imperial power, women's rights in the dignity and splendid. A few days ago, people in Guangzhou, a culture house, saw the masters of this collection - special collection of exquisite embroidery of Mr. Zeng Yingjing lived in the United States more than 20 years, has been scattered afar in search of Chinese embroidery.
This has to be returned to Guangzhou Jing to visit relatives, some of the collection back to his parents home, with hearing the news came of the Guangdong Folk Art Museum and the Department of the Ministry of display expert, came to his home feast for the eyes. This document collections, also please have some influence in the country of wide embroidery master Chen Shaofang evaluation, she amazed: "has not seen such a beautiful embroidery."
Tin Kwong Hui Bao Amoy to New York

"My collection of dozens of pieces of embroidery in China, many of whom are in the Qing Dynasty's fine, and the most controversial Supreme is this 'Phoenix in the last dragon in the next' The Empress embroidered gown." About the origins of this rare collection, have to be enthusiastic Jing, he recalled, it was a winter morning two years ago, had arrived in New York early in the morning should Jing Tin Kwong Hui. Every weekend morning, the United States East Coast six states gathered in the heritage business, hawking various countries of the old service. 1 color silk robe Dai Qing fascinated him, from the design to the sleeves of embroidery is extremely beautiful and delicate. At that time more people, scenes are more turbulent, and he did not specifically note that in the last phoenix, the dragon in the next composition, but obviously clear that this gown domineering aloof, exquisite workmanship, is a rare Qing court clothing.

Who should Jing said: "I was not hesitate to make this a natural indigo color hand embroidery robe caught and and old clothes dealers who chatted up. Originally he is from Pennsylvania, bought the world by his hand countless variety of old clothes around. As for the origins of a phoenix robe, he remembered about as a church auction from the Pennsylvania field. "have been bought by the bargaining embroidered gowns.
This material comes as Empress Dowager?

Home, had this robe should Jing straight up look, the more clearly surprised and found even after the embroidery is a phoenix play a dragon, a violation of common sense feudal dynasty in China, "Phoenix in the last, the dragon in the next . "

In China's feudal history, male superiority, the first feudal imperial rule but also in daily and royal costumes. After going through all the information, the book describes cases of Chinese embroidery dress like, you can say that none of this insolent "Phoenix in the last dragon in the next," the court embroidery, the court must not subordinate elite government officials misled his majesty behead the courage to take Crime do this kind of clothing, only the Tang Dynasty Empress Wu and Empress Dowager Ganchuan this dress.
Who should Jing said: "This' phoenix robes' appearance, can be understood as a symbol of the Empress Dowager Cixi was the supreme authority, can also be understood as subordinate to flatter Empress Dowager, intends for her to discuss her offer of a favor of ' Phoenix in the last dragon in the next 'Korean gowns. Choushan from the blue end of the inner gown show the old track through the judge, the' phoenix robes' has been through more than six months. has not yet been found there is another Qing pieces of this kind of 'phoenix robe', it is very likely in the Qing dynasty alone product. "

To prove his ideas, who should Jing find almost all information about the National Palace embroidered gown, but no answer. He also ran a lot of places to find experts, and also we can not do. Because very little embroidery collectors, identification and information is scarce talent, that he regretted. To this end asked the Guangdong Provincial Museum staff, the answer is: to identify relatively few experts in embroidery, Guangdong virtually no expertise in this area. www.mingliuqipao.com (edited)

  

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