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收藏旧时女红-织绣
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织绣,是在绸缎、布帛和现代化纤织物等材料上,用丝、绒、棉等各种彩色线,凭借一根细小钢针的上下穿刺运动,构成各种优美图象或文字,它是我国优秀的民族传统工艺之一。在目前的拍卖市场,织锦、刺绣、缂丝已成为织绣拍卖领域中的“三大主力”。织绣虽说一直是收藏市场上的佼佼者,但由于不易保存,所以历经千百年而留存下来的数量较少。近几年来,越来越多的人开始把收藏投资的注意力转向织绣,其市场也随之升温。在2004年中国嘉德春季专场拍卖会上,一件清乾隆御制的《钦定补端石兰亭图贴缂丝全卷》,以3575万元的高价成交,创下了织绣拍卖的最高纪录。
  
   历史悠久名扬四海

   我国织绣历史源远流长。据考古资料证明,新石器时代的良渚文化时期就有了丝织品。湖北和湖南古墓中出土的战国和汉代绣品的水平已很高,其中战国楚墓的两件绣品针脚整齐,配色清雅,线条流畅,图案内容有龙游凤舞,猛虎瑞兽,充分显示出楚国织绣艺术的成就;而长沙马王堆汉墓出土的锦帛和丝衣更是成了不可多得的国宝级文物。唐代的刺绣工艺有了很大的发展,出现了很多针法,其表现形式也从单纯的服装走向了具有欣赏价值的画幅。宋代绣品中除了一部分实用品外,大部分绣画水平已达到前所未有的传神意境。明代著名画家董其昌曾在书上写道:“宋人之绣,针线细密,用绒止一二丝,用针如发细者,为之设色精妙光彩夺目。山水分远近之趣,楼阁待深邃之体,人物具瞻眺生动之情,花鸟极绰约搀唼之态。佳者较画更胜,望之三趣悉备,十指春风,盖之此乎。”可见他对宋绣艺术评价之高。明清两代绣品在继承传统的基础上有了更大的发展,尤其值得一提的是在民间出现了很多地方绣,有顾绣、鲁绣、湘绣、京绣、粤绣、苏绣、蜀绣等,而苏绣、蜀绣、湘绣、粤绣又被称为中国“四大名绣”。

   织绣收藏可从品种、年代、艺术价值等几方面着手。在品种方面以织和绣而言,织是通过经纬线的各种交织变化而成的丝棉织物,通常所说的绫罗绸缎就是各种不同的丝织物,其中以缂丝最珍贵。绣就是刺绣,俗称“绣花”,是在织物上的一种再创作。按设计要求,以针引线,进行穿刺,通过运针绣线组织成各种图案和色彩的一种技艺。刺绣技法可分为锁绣、钉绣、平绣、纳绣、十字绣、打籽绣、编绣、剪贴绣、串珠绣、发绣等,以清代形成的“四大名绣”,代表了我国刺绣艺术的最高水平。

   精品纷繁鉴赏有术

   与书画等其它艺术品不同,织绣往往是一件集体作品,绣与缂一般还能说出其作者的名姓,而普通织品就很难鉴定其作者了,当然我们有时还可以依靠织款来识别其作者、作坊或厂家名称。因此在判断织绣拍品价值的时候,除了作者之外,更重要的还是应该从织绣本身去判断。织绣年代的鉴别应从质地、纹样、色彩、款式等方面识别。

   质地就是织绣的底料,它的制作结构很具有断代性。例如五枚缎,目前所知,它的出现最早在元代。所以如果见到的织物是五枚缎,它一般不会早于元代。如果见到一件八枚缎,它的产生一般在清代,而且是清中晚期的可能性更大。纹样和色彩也最能反映不同时

   代的变化,而且有时同瓷器、绘画等艺术品一样都有同时代特征。比如绣品上龙的变化,明代以前的龙身体细长、造型多变,甚至连龙爪的数量也是不确定的。但到明代,龙的造型逐渐定型,龙头扁状、侧面、猪嘴、尖齿,嘴巴上唇明显拉长,并向上翻翘,头上毛发合拢后向上,花肚皮,轮形五爪,样子凶猛。到明代中期龙嘴闭合,上下长短基本相当。到明晚期,龙头加大,双眼突起,嘴开启,常作戏珠状;到了清朝,龙身逐渐变粗,龙头如猪头,眼神无力,龙须披散。在色彩的使用上明代装饰性强、庄重,明万历时流行著名的万历五色。清前期颜色深、暗、沉重,接近明代。乾隆时期流行玫瑰紫、绛色;嘉庆时流行香色、浅灰色和棕色;咸丰同治间流行蓝、驼、油绿和米色等;光绪宣统时,则用宝蓝、天青、库灰色等。款式也是年代鉴别的要素之一。例如袍衫的款式演变,清初尚长,顺治末减短至膝,不久又加长至脚踝。在清中后期又流行宽松式;清晚期受西方文化的影响,中式袍衫的款式又变紧身起来。

   总之年代的鉴别应综合多方面的内容考察才能断代。鉴别一件织绣的品种和年代,最终是要确定其艺术价值和收藏价值。所以在鉴别一件绣品的艺术价值时应从艺术性、品相、尺寸、珍罕程度等方面考虑。

   量稀价高收藏要诀

   收藏与投资古织绣品有几点需要注意。

   年代:愈早、品相愈好的织绣品价值愈高。某一织绣品的早期代表作和兴盛期的经典之作,往往是人们追求的目标,如战国的楚绣、汉代的吉语锦、唐代的联珠文锦、宋代的书画缂丝、明代的补子等,都是织绣品中收藏的极品。

   品种:欣赏品的价格要高于实用品,服装要高于匹料。缂丝为织绣品中特别受青睐之物。服装中袍服胜于裙袄,龙袍等宫廷之物和官服又胜于民间服装。装饰品中补子最受欢迎,20世纪上半叶起,在欧美已形成稳定的市场,价格居高不下,乾隆以前的一幅补子价格都在5000美元以上。配携品中又以香袋、荷包最惹人喜爱。一件小小的清代银链香袋,现在的价格也在3000元左右。

   珍稀程度:明清武官补子中品级低的海马、犀牛由于稀少,反而贵于狮虎。荷包品种极多,其中圆荷包、鸡心荷包和褡裢荷包颇多精巧可爱者,但由于传世数量大而不太珍贵,葫芦荷包因为较难寻觅反而身价较高。缂丝少于刺绣,故缂丝身价远高于刺绣。此外,名家如宋代的缂丝高手朱克柔、沈子蕃、吴熙等的作品,由于技艺精湛,存世稀少而弥足珍贵。

   当然,从投资角度的来说,选择织绣还是应该以精品策略为主。对于普通投资者来说,要想真正通过投资织绣物品获利,还是应该从拍卖会开始。去拍卖会,可以从了解拍品的品质开始,了解什么才是精品。在目前织绣市场整体处于上升态势的情况下,谁的鉴赏能力高,所获得回报也就高。www.mingliuqipao.com(编辑整理)

Weaving and embroidery, in silk, cotton and silk textiles, and modern synthetic materials such as fabrics, with silk, cashmere, cotton, and other color line, with a small needle puncture movement up and down to form a variety of beautiful images or text, it is China's outstanding traditional handicrafts. In the current auction market, brocade, embroidery, tapestry embroidery auction has become a field of the "three main forces." Although embroidery collections have been the market leader, but not easy to save, so after thousands of years but fewer survived. In recent years, more and more people began to invest attention to embroidery collection, its market is growing. China Guardian 2004 Spring Session auction, a Qing Emperor Qianlong's "up-side-ting Figure Imperial paste tapestry full volume" to 35.75 million yuan of high turnover, setting a record auction embroidery.

A long history of Fame
Chinese embroidery a long history. According to archaeological evidence indicating that the Neolithic period of the Liangzhu culture will have a silk. Tomb in Hubei and Hunan, the Warring States Period and Han Dynasty unearthed in the level of embroidery has been very high, which the Warring States Chu's two embroidery pin neat, elegant colors, smooth lines, design content Longyou Fung Mo, Tigers benevolent, fully Chu embroidery art shows Achievements; and unearthed in Changsha and silk brocade silk clothing has become even more rare treasures. Tang Embroidery has great development, there has been a lot of acupuncture in the form of clothing from simple to appreciate the value of the frame with. Song embroidery in addition to part of the actual items, most Xiuhua has reached unprecedented expressive mood. Ming Dong Qichang famous painter, wrote in the book: "Song of embroidery, sewing fine, with only 12 silk velvet, with a hair thin needle, such as those make for exquisite dazzling color. Landscape far and near points of interest in the pavilion to be the body deep, the characters vivid feelings with Tiao Zhan, a very graceful bird mix Sha of state. good art than those ranked ahead, hope the three interesting note preparation, spring fingers, cover of this almost. "evident that his evaluation of the Song Dynasty Embroidery high. Ming and Qing dynasties embroidery on the basis of inheriting the tradition with greater development, in particular, is worth mentioning that there are many places in embroidered folk there and Embroidery, Lu embroidery, embroidery, embroidery in Beijing, Guangdong embroidery, Suzhou embroidery, Shu embroidery and so on, Suzhou embroidery, Sichuan embroidery, Hunan embroidery and Guangdong embroidery is also known as China's "four famous embroidery."

Embroidery collection from the species, age and artistic value of some aspects. In terms of varieties in terms of weaving and embroidery, weaving through the longitude and latitude changes in various woven fabrics made of cotton, commonly referred to as grade silk is a variety of silk fabrics, of which the most precious tapestry. Embroidery is embroidery, commonly known as "embroidery" is the fabric of a re-creation. According to design requirements, in order to pin lead, to puncture through the operation embroidery lines organized into various patterns and colors of a skill. Embroidery techniques can be divided into lock embroidery, pin embroidery, flat embroidery, sodium embroidery, cross stitch, playing seed embroidery, embroidery series, clip embroidery, bead embroidery, hair embroidery, to the formation of the Qing Dynasty, "the four famous embroidery", represents the Chinese embroidery art of the highest level.

Appreciation of fine intricate tricks

Paintings and other works of art with different embroidery is often a collective work, embroidery and Ke general also cite the canning of its author, while difficult to identify the general fabric of the course, sometimes we can come to rely on paragraph organization identify its author, workshop or factory name. So in judging the embroidery auction value, in addition to author, it is more important or should be to judge from the embroidery itself. Embroidery's identification from texture patterns, color, style and so on identification.

Texture is the embroidery of the substrate, and its production structure is a sex dating. For example, five satin, now known, it appears first in the Yuan Dynasty. So if seeing is five satin fabric, it is generally not as early as the Yuan Dynasty. If you see an eight satin, it produces a general in the Qing Dynasty, and is more likely to clear in late. Patterns and colors are best reflects the different time

Generation change, and sometimes with porcelain, paintings, contemporary art has the same characteristics. Changes such as embroidery on the dragon, the dragon before the Ming Dynasty slender body, changing shape, and even the number of Alondra is uncertain. But the Ming Dynasty, the dragon is gradually shaping, leading flat shape, side, snout, sharp teeth, mouth and upper lip significantly elongated, turned to the Alice, his head after the hair close up, flowers belly, the wheels Ipomoea, look fierce . To the mid-Ming dragon mouth closed, and down the length of roughly equal. To the late Ming, leading to increase, protruding eyes, mouth open, often to make playing with a pearl-like; to the Qing Dynasty, its body gradually thicken, leading, such as pig, eye weakness, asparagus it loose. Ming Dynasty in the use of decorative color and strong, dignified, well-known Ming Wanli million last five colors pop. Color of the Qing Dynasty deep, dark, heavy, close to the Ming Dynasty. Popular Mei Guizi Qianlong period, Crimson; Jiaqing popular Hong colors, light gray and brown; ancient Tongzhi popular among blue, camel, glossy dark green and beige, etc.; Guangxu Xuantong, then the use of sapphire, azure, library gray. Identification of the element's style is one. For example, the evolution of style robe shirt, Qing still long, Junji shortened to the knee late and soon extended to the ankle. Popular in the Qing Dynasty in the latter part of the liberal type; the late Qing Dynasty by the influence of western culture, Chinese gowns tight shirt style has changed up.

Identification of short years the contents of various investigation should be comprehensive to dating. Identification of an embroidery of the species and age, the end is to determine the artistic value and collection value. Therefore, identifying the artistic value of an embroidery should be from the artistic, appearance and dimensions, Zhen Han extent taken into consideration.

Accepting the highest amount of rare collections Tips

Collection of ancient embroidery products and investment there are several points to note.

Age: The sooner, the better of embroidery products with higher value products. An embroidery masterpiece and the flourishing of early products of the classic, often one goal, such as the Warring States Chu embroidery, Han Ji language Kam, Zhu Wenjin Tang joint, the Song painting tapestry, Ming the complement of child, are in the collection of Need for embroidery products.

Varieties: Listen to the prices of goods higher than the actual items, clothing materials to be higher than the horse. Kesi is embroidery products especially attractive things. Dress jacket apparel robes better than, robes and other things and the official uniform court is better than another folk costume. Son of the most popular decorations up, half of the 20th century onwards, Europe and the United States has formed a stable market, prices remain high, Qian Long before a child prices up more than in 5000 U.S. dollars. Distribution carry goods they turned sachets, purse most likable. A small silver chain sachets Qing Dynasty, the prices are now around 3,000 yuan.

Rarity: the Ming and Qing military attache fill low-grade son in the hippocampus, rhinoceros as rare, but expensive to Shi Hu. Purse very many varieties, including a round purse, heart-shaped purse and wallet dalian who many lovingly crafted, but handed down in large quantities and less valuable, because more difficult to find but gourd purse worth more. Kesi less than embroidery, tapestry worth so much higher than the embroidery. In addition, the famous Song of the tapestry, such as master Zucker soft, sub-Fan Shen, Wu Xi and other works, as skilled, but precious few survive in the world.

Of course, from the investment point of it, choose embroidery or strategy should be mainly fine. For ordinary investors, in order to really profit by investing in embroidery items, or should we start from the auction. Go to auction, from start to understand the quality of auction, to understand what is fine. In the current rising trend in the embroidery market as a whole situation, who's appreciation of high returns also obtained high. www.mingliuqipao.com (edited)



  

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