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中国传统服饰:周代帝王的官服
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周代的帝王礼服由衮、冕、黻、带、裳、幅、舄、衡等服饰组成。衮,是绘制上或刺绣有各种图案的彩色上衣。冕,是帝王戴的顶上有平版的冠帽。黻,又叫蔽膝,是腹前悬挂的长方形织物。带,指用皮革制作或丝线编织的腰带。裳,是下身穿的长裙。幅,又叫邪幅是缠在腿上的布带。舄,是金线和红线编织的厚底鞋。衡,是用来固定冠冕的头饰。

帝王礼服的装饰品和专用花纹,大概也是从周代开始有了具体规定。帝王的服装花纹共分成12种。如有龙纹、山纹、华虫纹、宗彝纹、藻纹、火纹、粉米纹、黼纹、黻纹。这些花纹,只有在天子的服装上才会全部出现。诸候们只能使用龙以下的纹样,士用藻纹与火纹。大夫的服装上可加上粉米纹。

经过动荡不安的春秋战国时期,秦始皇一统天下后,废除了原有的六种冕服,仅留下一种黑色的玄冕供祭祀时使用。因为秦人根据五行学说认定自己符合水德,水与黑色配合,所以秦代尚黑,从帝王到平民都穿用黑色服装。秦始皇对旧礼制进行了彻底破坏,使得到了汉代初年仍没有统一的礼服、制服。

商代帝王的官服
商周时期的礼服,代表当时最高级的服饰式样。

衣服有长及足部的长袍,也有分为两截的上衣下裳。衣,一般是窄袖、紧口、领子缘有宽边,以对襟为主,也有偏衽的式样。裳是长齐小腿的裙子。腰间束带。腹前悬挂一块长方形的"黼黻"。当时没有裤子。只在小腿上缠绕裹腿,古人叫作"行滕",或"邪幅"。脚上穿各种质料制的鞋子。头上戴的,是贵族男子专用的冕、冠、弁等"头衣"。

在寒冷的冬天,人们要加穿各种兽皮制成的皮裘。

贵族的礼服大多是狐皮裘袍,特别是白色的狐裘,极为珍贵。贵族们为显示礼仪,就在毛裘外面罩上丝织的锦衣,叫作"裼"。有时在裼衣上还可以再加上一层外衣,叫作正服,这是在重大礼仪中穿的礼服外衣。西周宗法礼仪制度的形成,不但确定了尊卑上下各个等级的不同服装式样。而且要求随着不同的礼仪换用不同的服饰。

Zhou imperial robes

By the Gun Zhou imperial dress, crown, embroidery, belts, clothes, pieces, shoe, clothing and other value components. Gun is drawn or embroidered with various patterns of color shirt. Crown, is the emperor wearing a crown on top of a lithographic apparatus. Embroidery, also known as shield knee, is the front suspension of the rectangular fabric abdomen. With, that make or silk woven leather belt. Clothes, wearing a dress the next. Rate, also known as evil piece is wrapped around the legs with a cloth. Niigata is woven of gold and red platform shoes. Value is used to fix the crown headdress.

Decorations and special imperial dress pattern, probably from the Zhou Dynasty began to have specific provisions. Emperor's clothing patterns were divided into 12 species. If dragons, mountain pattern, China insect pattern, cases Yi Wen, algal, fire lines, powder-meter pattern, embroidery pattern, embroidery pattern. These patterns, only the emperor's clothes will all appear. Uncooperative, who can only use the following pattern Long, who with algal and fire lines. Doctor of clothing can be grain rice flour added.

After a turbulent period of the Warring States, Qin Shi Huang unified the world, the abolition of the original six Mianfu, leaving only a mysterious black crown for the ritual use. Because the five elements theory Qin found himself under the water line with Germany, water and black tie, so the Qin Dynasty is still black, from emperors to civilian wear black clothing. Qin Shi Huang of the old ritual was completely destroyed, so that the Han Dynasty was still no uniform dress, uniform.

Shang emperors robes
Shang and Zhou dynasties dress, was the most senior representatives of the clothing style.

Clothing and foot with long robes, also divided into two parts of the shirt lower part. Clothing, usually with tight sleeves, tight mouth, the collar edge of a broad-brimmed, with buttons down the front mainly, but also biased ren style. Sang is a long homogeneous calf skirt. Drawstring waist. Waist and suspended by a rectangular "embroidery embroidery." There was no trousers. Only on the wound in the calf legging, the ancients called "line Teng," or "evil sites." Feet to wear shoes made of various material. Wearing, and a noble man dedicated crown, crown, functional and other "first suit."

In the cold winter, people want to add a variety of skins made of fur to wear.

Most aristocratic fox fur dress gown, white fur coat in particular, is extremely valuable. Nobles to show rituals to cast out in the wool fur silk clothing and silk, called "Ti." Sometimes Xi Yi can add a layer on the coat, is called service, which is important to wear ceremonial dress coat. Formation of the Western Zhou system of patriarchal manners, not only to determine the hierarchy up and down all levels of different clothing styles. And require replacement with the different manners in different costumes.


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